Monday, May 9, 2016

The best laid plans ...

It's a bit early for me to be blogging, but we're already at a hotel, this one ALL THE WAY in Alexandria, MN. We had a successful morning, acquiring some thinner socks and a fanny pack for me, more dried dog food and treats, some allergy remedies for Tayler, food at Trader Joe's, and breakfast once again at the Chilkoot Cafe and Cyclery, . While we were eating, the proprietor of the bike shop came and found me and informed me that the cart I had ordered for Remy was only available out of New Orleans and would take several days to arrive in Stillwater. Knowing that we didn't want to pay hotel prices in Stillwater for several days, I did the following:

* Found a bike shop in Fargo, ND, that would accept a package addressed to me that will arrive in a couple of days
* Ordered a different cart, one that is actually designed for a dog instead of children and is slightly less expensive
* Decided to drive to Bowlus, MN, and ride from there to Osakis, where I thought I had found a cabin for $50/night, two-night minimum, on the Lake Woebegone Trail (It turned out to be $100/night, so no go.)

Here's what actually happened. The ordering and bike shop in Fargo worked out beautifully, but now that I didn't have a cart for Remy, I knew we wouldn't get far in the rain. (He won't even go out for a walk if it's raining beyond a drizzle.) We drove to Bowlus, and when we got there I scoped out the trail. I would have loved to ride. The wind was driving from behind, the trail was paved, the temperature was moderate, and the rain wasn't too bad -- plus, I have rain gear, so no problem, right? Except for Mr. Dog Breath, the loose cannon of every plan.

Remy and Tayler have been getting to know each other, and I think it fair to say that he now trusts her as much as any other human besides me and Colin, and possibly Joel; but that doesn't mean much when it comes to being separated from me. Tayler just didn't feel comfortable driving away from me with him in the car, and I could totally understand it. And I didn't feel comfortable starting on a potential 50-mile ride with a dog who would be uncomfortable, miserable, and even downright objectionable if it started to rain harder.

So on we drove to Alexandria, MN, quite a bit further than I had planned. But we got a motel room for about $50/night, which means that we can stay here for several nights without moving on, if the weather is uncooperative and not spend a lot of money doing so. The trip, I have realized, is financially viable only as long as we keep moving. The biggest disappointment was not being able to work with the cart today, believing that Remy would be able to travel through more inclement weather in such a cart. Of course, we don't know yet whether he actually will cooperate with the cart. It will certainly require some treats and training. I remember when Alice trained our former dog, Fiona, to go "home" into her kennel. She was so good at it -- well, both of them: Alice at the training, and Fiona at the going. I hope I am so lucky.

We have the option of staying at this place for two more nights beyond tonight, which may be necessary if the weather is as bad as it is predicted to be. Then, two good riding days (50 mi/day) to Fargo and we can get the cart. That will mean one week spent getting through Wisconsin and another through Minnesota. That's about right on track.

The very first day, I began to realize how much of a crap shoot this venture is, when I got off from the directions the bike shop guys had given me and rode for miles and miles on a major city thoroughfare. The second and third days, it was the wind that made it difficult for me to stay focused on how much I love riding my bike. Of course, I do still love riding my bike, even in inclement weather, so on we go.

If all we do is sit around Alexandria, I may not write much the next couple of days unless I have some major psychological or life realizations. Keep those encouraging messages coming in folks!

Sunday, May 8, 2016

Rest day blues?

It has been a perfect Mothers' Day, weather-wise, at least. Tayler and I started out the morning at Chilkoot Cafe & Bicyclery in downtown Stillwater, a charming community on the Mississippi. Tayler had scoped out the possibility of my getting a cart for Remy at the Cyclery when she was looking around yesterday, so I went today to see what was what. Breakfast at the cafe was excellent -- healthy food, creatively prepared and presented, and delicious coffee drinks, as well. When the bike shop opened (a little later than the cafe), I looked at available carts with the proprietor. One option I was considering was getting a lightweight flatbed and attaching Remy's kennel to it with bungee cords, but alas, the flatbed was not available. (I should explain that the bike shop is not big enough to stock a variety of carts, but the supplier is only a few blocks away.) What I ordered, and which should be in mid-morning tomorrow, is a small, single-child, Burley cart. Since it is not specifically designed for a dog, I have concerns about the fabric of the base (to withstand toenails), and the method of restraint; but we can probably figure out a way to make it work.

Tayler went off to meet a friend, and I did the same, driving with Remy into Minneapolis to meet Nic Lincoln for lunch. Nic and I have worked several summers together at Blue Lake Fine Arts Camp, and I like him. He is a creative man of artistic and personal integrity. We ate at a place near his apartment called Tugg's. I had a burger. And fries.

Then I sought out Target, purchasing an air mattress, some laundry detergent, and some cotton socks. I love my wool socks, but after a few hours of riding the thickness starts to make my feet feel tight. I don't know how well the cotton ones will work. I believe I'll start out with them tomorrow, keeping some wool ones in reserve in my pack. After Target, I returned to the hotel, put a load of laundry in, and dragged everything out of the car that is mine. I repacked a number of things, reducing weight in my bike pack and panniers. In fact, the panniers are now folded up. If I do get the cart tomorrow, there is plenty of storage in a pocket in the back of the cart, which means that I may be able to put the bike pack in the car and pull only the weight in the cart.

I met up with Tayler again for supper, and we split a salad at a Mexican restaurant called Acapulco, near the hotel. After a quick but adequate walk with Remy, I grabbed my Adventure Cycling maps and brought them to the room. Here I found that the AC route from Stillwater to Fargo is about 390 miles, while there are other roads that could get me there at about 265 miles. If I were touring with someone else, where much of the trip was about seeing things together, I would be more inclined to meander. After this past week, though, and the reality of the challenges of wind and weather, and after figuring out Wisconsin without AC, I am more inclined to follow a different route to Fargo, which appears to include a fairly lengthy chunk of bike-designated trail that I would miss going the other way.

But I find myself feeling a bit ... gloomy. Tomorrow's weather calls for ESE winds at 15-25 mph. It would be great if I could make some significant headway toward Fargo tomorrow, because then rain rolls in until midday on Tuesday. Wednesday looks like a completely rainy day, and then Thursday the winds pick up out of the NW again. I know I just need to take each day as it comes. Guess I'm just having a little trouble doing that right now. Maybe a good night's sleep ...

Perhaps I'll tell you a little about what I'm riding, carrying, and packing for the trip. I'm riding a Fuji A2SL, a men's model, black with orange accents. On the handlebars, interfered with regularly by Remy's basket (a Snoozer), is a pouch-type holder and a trip computer, which I still haven't figured out. The handlebars have been outfitted with extensions to give me more places to put my hands. The Pearl Izumi padded gloves help with hand fatigue immeasurably. On the back of the bike is a Topeak rack and pack. The pack has a center unit with rigid walls, topped with a  map pocket. It has a pannier on either side which can be folded up and zipped into the center unit. I am carrying a small, lightweight tool kit, an air pump and gauge, an extra inner tube, a roll of toilet paper, Remy's food and treats (all freeze-dried, so not heavy), a couple of Rx Bars and some dried fruit and nuts.

I am wearing standard padded riding shorts and, except on the warmest days, lightweight wool riding pants over them, wool socks, and my Giro riding shoes that clip into my Shimano pedals (sometimes a little too well). I bought a new helmet a couple of months ago in my favorite shade of bright blue. It's a Giro, also, and it's the first one I've had that adjusts with the little dial in the back. This I find very handy when I first don my Banger goggles and then have to fit the helmet over the strap. It's nice to be able to cinch the helmet on just right over the goggles.

It's only 8:42, but I have a sense that the only thing that's going to make sense of tomorrow is to get some sleep and encounter it when I wake up. I love knowing you're all out there hanging with me on my journey.

Saturday, May 7, 2016

Minneapolis (Stillwater)

My Adventure Cycling route starts from Stillwater, so that's where we've come, although I do hope to get a chance to get into Minneapolis/St Paul to see Nic Lincoln while I'm here. Tayler got here before me -- she actually went to Minneapolis first and had a thoroughly frustrating time trying to get around, to park, and to find things; so when she picked me up today she reported that she really likes Stillwater and doesn't want to go back into M/SP.

Today, I rode about 45 miles, the most I've done since the first day. It was a lovely day: temps in the upper 60s to low 70s, much of the riding along the Mississippi River, and even the somewhat gusty wind and hills couldn't take the fun out of it for me. I stopped several times and had some nice conversations with people along the way.

I have been noticing that Remy's basket is starting to lose its integrity, and I've been concerned about the amount of dust and debris he's probably getting in the face as we ride. Tomorrow, I will visit a bike shop that Tayler ferreted out today (attached to a breakfast cafe/coffee shop) and probably get a trailer for him. I think he'll be okay with it as long as he can see me, and I'll feel better if he can move around a bit more, and keep off the sun, rain, and grit. I also think it will probably be safer for both of us, since his movement won't affect my steering. It's a relatively expensive item, but I think it will be worth it. One possibility might be to get a simple, flat trailer and attach his kennel to it. We'll see what they have to offer in the morning.

I'm excited to start the Adventure Cycling maps on Monday, although I may not get very far if I have to wait to get Remy's trailer. We'll see what happens. Some other things we have to do while here on a rest day are: laundry, oil change, car wash, take everything out of the car and see what's there and repack in a more organized fashion, rest.

I find myself composing songs and haiku as I ride. I don't remember the songs for long, even though sometimes they're pretty good. But I do remember the haiku. This one was from today:



Wisconsin is full
of lilacs, singing their song
of Alice ... Alice ...

If you've only ever crossed the Mississippi and not driven along it, I recommend it. It's an amazing body of water, and it affects everyone and everything near it. 

Time for sleep. I know there's more I wanted to tell you all, but the thoughts are slipping away. Night-night!

Friday, May 6, 2016

It was a hot one!

Today, I started from our Baymont Inn in Onalaska, WI. I wasn't really sure how to get to the trail, but I figured if I headed north and west, I'd come to it eventually; and that's sort of what happened. In the meantime, I cruised through some nice suburban neighborhoods, a stretch of secondary highway, and ended up at a wonderful nature center, whose name I don't remember, and I can't find the business card that the wonderful volunteer -- named Carol P (she wrote her full name down, but since I can't find the business card, ...) -- gave me. Carol was a breathy of fresh air in my day. She knew exactly where I needed to go and gave me excellent directions to get there. She also admired Remy, talked about a wonderful Bill Bryson book for me to check out at a later date, and talked about Grandma Gatewood's Walk with me. She gave me maps of Wisconsin and Minnesota, as well as some smaller ones of the immediate area; and she recommended that we not miss Perrot State Park. I relayed the information to Tayler. She went to Perrot, and when Remy and I came riding along we went into the park and found her on a grassy bank overlooking the Mississippi.

The temperature and wind this morning were ideal. I found myself with more energy and eager anticipation than I've had since riding with Sloth that first day. The trail (Great River Trail) that I was following was packed earth, not paved, but it didn't slow us down much. We traveled between 9 and 11 mph most of the day. As the day wore on, it got hotter and hotter, until I realized that it was 90 degrees out. Once we reached the end of the Great River Trail, we had to get onto Hwy 35 (Great River Road) in order to progress further north. I probably sat back from the corner at that intersection for close to 45 minutes trying to figure out if there was another way to go, and listening to the whoosh whoosh of passing traffic. I wasn't sure how Remy would do with it, even though the shoulders were more than adequate.

After a consultation with Sloth which revealed that I could take another way, but it would take me far away from the river and, therefore, off track, I decided to see how Remy would fare; and if he tried to jump out of the carrier, I would find a shady spot and call Tayler. We made it 8.5 miles before I just needed to take my shoes off and sit down. When I stopped, I thought it was temporary and we would keep going; but once I got a look at how sunburned my legs were, I decided it was time to break for the day. We were just short of Fountain City, population 781.

It took a while for Tayler to get to us, so we consumed what was left of our water, walked around a little, and sat looking at the phone for possible lodging up ahead. We found a place with small, attached units right on Hwy 35, just past Alma, overlooking the river: Riedt Cabins. A lot of places were full. I guess the fine weather made lots of people think about getting away for the weekend. Once settled, we drove into beautiful downtown Alma to the Red Ram Saloon. My hamburger was quite tasty. I hope it sits okay.

From this place of utter exhaustion, let me say that, in spite of the temperature and the wind picking up later in the day, I had a wonderful ride. It was great to be able to see the Mississippi during the end of it. Tayler and I have agreed that, to keep this trip from lasting the entire summer, we will set approximately 60-mile goals each day (more or less, depending on the upcoming communities), and I will ride what I can of the 60 miles each day, calling on her to pick us up if/when I become too tired. I hope that my stamina will increase and that I will be able to ride most of it, but I just can't do it at 30+ miles per day.

Because we have already had several shorter days, tomorrow we will aim for Stillwater, the place where my Adventure Cycling maps begin. It is 76 miles from here, and we all know I will not ride that far, but I'll get on the bike in the morning and set out to go as far as I can. Scattered thunderstorms are in the forecast, and I'm still thinking about how best to handle that. It could mean I won't see any rain all day; but it could mean that Remy and I will get caught in a downpour with thunder and lightning. I will elicit advice from my bicycling FB friends.


Thursday, May 5, 2016

A quiet, restful day

As I believe I mentioned in yesterday's blog, it was decided that we would drive to La Crosse today. We had a leisurely breakfast in Baraboo -- at a restaurant, for a change, as we were getting kind of tired of hotel free breakfast food -- and then packed up and got on our way. We took the scenic route, and it was beautiful and rolling. There were several hills I was most grateful not to be riding up today.

Once we got to La Crosse, we parked and walked to a likely restaurant. Our server, Tony, had a resonant voice and great elan. After he had visited the table a few times, I finally asked him whether he was an actor. He said that he might be, why? I told him that his energy and voice spoke to that as a vocation or avocation. He said that he used to do a lot of acting, but work and post-secondary schooling had gotten in the way, but he was thinking about getting back into it on a community theatre level. I daresay he's thinking about it even more after my comments.

We walked back to the car, which was parked near a coffee shop (the Cabin). We each had a coffee, and I brought my computer in and used their WiFi in order to check out the bike route from there, a hotel, and the location of the nearest Walgreen's (lanolin for my knee, and lip balm with an SPF factor), a pet store (new basket for Remy?), and a hardware store. I was having trouble staying focused on my tasks, so I asked one of the workers at the coffee shop instead. Turns out there was a hardware store mere storefronts away where, "they can solve anything!" I went there to have an extra car key made, and the wonderful woman who worked there ended up solving the dog carrier problem, as well. I was also told that there was a Walgreen's on the way out of town to our hotel.

We researched restaurants once we had brought our stuff in from the car and Tayler had worked out on the stationary bike at the hotel. I thought I had found a great place -- the Crazy Horse Saloon -- with a really interesting and healthy menu. We took off in search of it. It wasn't there anymore and had been replaced by the Silverado Saloon. We opened the door. We closed the door. We went to Olive Garden. It seems that the Crazy Horse Saloon I had found on line was actually in California, which made a lot more sense with the menu. This place in Onalaska didn't look like they'd ever heard of goat cheese, much less served it!

After dinner, we filled the car up with gas, got a couple more necessaries, and headed back to the hotel where I, for one, will soon be laying down my head for the night. A high of 81 tomorrow looks very appealing. We may try to camp partway up the Mississippi, or we may hotel it. It looks as though campsites with electricity (for my CPAP) at Merrick State Park are $85, which is more than we are paying for the hotel tonight. The next three days have mostly to partly sunny skies predicted, and winds will be tolerable tomorrow and Sunday, if a little challenging on Saturday. We plan another rest day on Monday in Minneapolis before I start on the actual Adventure Cycling route maps on Tuesday. There is quite a bit of rain predicted for next week, but the winds are ESE and SE during much of it, which would be quite helpful, so I will plan to ride in the rain, as long as we're not getting deluges and thunderstorms.

The rest felt good.

Wednesday, May 4, 2016

Maybe I should call this trip, "Ride a little, get picked up"

I'm probably not being fair to myself, and I'm extremely grateful that I have Tayler, without whom I would probably be an exhausted, emotional mess by now, but this is the second day that I didn't make it to my destination under my own power.

I knew when I left Madison this morning that the winds would be daunting, and they definitely were, not to mention the "rolling hills." I enjoyed myself a great deal more, but after numerous stops and average speeds around 4-6 mph, I realized that I wouldn't make it to Baraboo this evening. Soooo, Tayler came and got me in Lodi, about 17 miles short of my destination. I hope, as weather changes and as I get stronger, that I'll be able to make 60 miles in a day. What I'm learning from these days, though, is that just like singing, every day is different -- in the world, in my body, in my mind.

I had one great bicycle shop experience in Madison, and one not so great. The proprietor at Revolutions Bike Shop on Atwood was extremely helpful. He sold me a pair of padded gloves (I had a pair, and they're most likely in the car someplace, but so far I'd been riding without because I couldn't find them.) and then proceeded to help me with mapping my way out of Madison and up to Baraboo. He and the other guys also discussed the pros and cons of the 102-mile, crushed limestone Elroy-Sparta Trail that goes from Reedsburg to La Crosse. Apparently, it parallels a highway with lots of access points, so it's easy to go back and forth as needed. If I get sick of the limestone, I can switch over to the highway. If I'm uncomfortable with traffic, I can switch back to the trail.

The not so great experience came when, after going through the downtown and back out Johnson St (which was where Tayler and I had  been for coffee earlier), I decided I could really use a map of the city of Madison, so I stopped at Old Town Cycles. Fortunately, the man who was working there had a map of the city because, when I tried to elicit route advice or directions he simply said, "I'm not good with directions. You have a map." Okay.

I did get off track, but a very nice gentleman at a liquor store at the County Road M turnoff knew the area well enough to get me to the next street on my directions from the Revolutions Cycle person. I've also discovered that I can map a destination on my phone and click on "walk", and it will usually get me someplace that is comfortably rideable.

I should probably mention that, when I heard the forecast for the day (north winds at 11 mph with gusts up to 17), I knew I was going to have to find a place inside that could enjoy this. And I did (mostly)! Dairy country is beautiful. I said "hello" to all the cows who lifted their heads to look at us: "Hello, my cow friends! I hope you are having a happy, peaceful life!" There was little traffic on the country roads I followed, which was a good thing because the shoulders were non-existent. Remy was still freaking out about big trucks, so if I saw one coming, I'd stop completely, put my arms around him, and talk to him until it had passed. I also made greater use of treats today. But I'm feeling as though his movement is too limited in the basket, so I may have to invest in a cart just for him (and some stuff).

I stopped often because the hills were non-stop, and going through them with headwinds made each one something that required preparation. At one point, I saw one ahead that looked like a vertical wall on top. We stopped at the bottom and had some beef jerky and water, and I had a chocolate/sea salt Rx bar just for extra fortification, while gazing at the incline and trying to decide whether I'd end up having to stop in the middle. I finally decided that it was likely, and it would be difficult to balance everything, so we walked up. If I'd been alone and unladen, I would have given it a shot; but I didn't want to risk crashing with Remy again. He's been pretty understanding about it so far.


This is the view from where we stopped and contemplated it. A side note: while I spent most of the day in the lowest of 3 gears and going between 4-6 mph, on the other side of this hill I reached my top speed of the day -- 29.3 mph -- for about 20 seconds!

The stops were frequent but healthy. I drank lots and lots of water, and Remy did, too. I even had to go to the bathroom a couple of times (TMI?), which I didn't when Sloth and I rode to Muskegon.

Anyway, with the slow pace and all the stops, I realized it would probably take me till about 10 p.m. to get to Baraboo where our hotel reservation was, so I had Tayler pick us up in Lodi. Tomorrow, though, the predicted high temperature is 66, the winds are "light and variable," and the base of the Elroy-Sparta Trail is only about 17 miles away. I'm hoping to accomplish 40 miles and get a good chunk of the trail behind me. The guys in Milwaukee told me that this particular trail is 102 miles long. They can do it in a day. It will take me at least 2 -- I'm being realistic now (finally!).

And here are some previous photos from the trip now that I've figured out how to post them!


Sloth and me on the way to Muskegon.


Nathan (L) and Steve (R) from South Shore Cyclery in Milwaukee.


Beautiful waterway along the Glacier-Drumlin Trail.


There's a red-winged blackbird in this picture. 


Rhubarb, ginger lemonade at Graze in Madison.


You know you're in a bicycle-friendly city (Madison) when the crossing lights are bicycle-specific. Hope you can see it.


Cool metal sculptures in Madison.





The best laid plans ... and Happy Birthday to Alice!

I started from Waukesha yesterday under bright blue skies with little wind. My first lesson of the day was that hotel maps are only good for finding things the hotel wants you to find, even if the bike trail is on there. I also learned that Wisconsin isn't great about posting street names. So it took a while, and one dog poopy stop, before we made our way to the trail head for the Glacier Drumlin Trail. I was supposed to have taken the Fox River Trail part of the way to get to it, but that didn't happen because of the hotel map. As I was riding, I got a phone call from Tayler, who had taken off in the car on her way to Madison. She had heard from the hotel, where I had left my card when checking out. Sheesh! She turned around, picked it up, and delivered it to me right before I got onto the trail.

The Glacier Drumlin Trail out of Waukesha is a lloonngg, steady, uphill grade - those trains, you know, that used to use these routes, couldn't go up and down quickly. Most of it was fine, except when I came out on an exposed ridge and realized that it was pretty windy. Nevertheless, I continued on to Dourson without much difficulty or mishap. Remy and I had a nice stop in Dourson, including snacks and water for both of us and nice conversation with a skater who had been on the trail.

Spirits risen and ready for the next leg, we mounted up and started across the street and back onto the trail, only to discover that this was where the crushed limestone started. I thought, "Okay. I don't know how far this goes, but how bad can it be?" The surface reduced my speed by about 2 mph on the flat. When I encountered the wind or a rise in grade, quite a bit more. After only a few miles (which seemed like more), I contacted friend Sloth for encouragement. Since he has many bicycling friends in Wisconsin, he found me an alternate route on roads. This was an area that he, himself, had not ridden, however.

After walking about a mile on the trail while Sloth did his checking, Remy and I began riding north on County Road D. The paved shoulder was only about 18" wide. There was crushed limestone shoulder beyond that, but it was uneven and certainly no better than the trail I had just been on. The upside was that it was much easier pedaling on the smooth road surface. The downside was that the wind was strong out of the west, creating a challenge to staying in the 18" area. There was little traffic, but what there was was mostly trucks, from pick-up to semi. One semi that passed caused Remy to nearly jump out of his basket. (He can't because he's buckled in, but the action is sort of like that of a person standing in a canoe.) I calmed him while continuing to ride, but the buffeting of the wind and his fear combined to bring me to a difficult decision. When we reached County Road B, on which we were to turn W, directly into the 18 mph wind on another road with 18" paved shoulder, I called Tayler to come and get us.

I felt a bit of a wussy, but I knew we couldn't do 20 more miles of that, and we all really wanted to stay in Madison last night. When we drove into Madison, we passed through Johnson Creek, the town I had originally thought I'd make it to on Monday (!), and I guess we could have stayed there; but I'm glad we got to Madison. We ate at a place downtown in view of the Capitol called Graze, with very interesting fare. I had bibimbop, which was spicy and delicious, but which I'm still experiencing this morning. Since it's still quite early, though, I don't think it will affect today's ride.

I haven't had a chance to check maps and conditions yet for today, but I hope to make it most of the way to the trail that runs from Reedsburg to La Crosse. If I remember correctly from talking with Nathan at the South Side Cyclery, that trail is 102 miles long, which will take me 2 days. If I can get to Reedsburg today, that's 3 days to La Crosse.

On a completely different note, today is the birthday of Alice Merlin Peterson, my beautiful and accomplished daughter #1. She is 29 years old today. I celebrate these wonderful years of having her in my life and all that I have learned from her. Happy Birthday, Alice!