Yesterday's trip to Bozeman was rough on everyone. It wasn't fun. Remy was anxious, and his continued motion throughout the trip made both Tayler and me anxious. The idea of the three of us traveling together like that any longer was distasteful to say the least.
Tayler met up with friends last night and stayed with them. I spent the evening with Remy, and when I got up this morning (pretty early, as usual), I wasn't sure what Tayler's plans were. Since I hadn't heard from her and figured her phone was probably out of juice, so I wouldn't be able to reach her, either, I decided to do something I wanted to do.
First, Remy and I went into downtown Bozeman and had breakfast at the Mainstreet Overeasy, a really wonderful breakfast place. They had the best hashbrowns I've ever eaten, and my idea of a veggie omelette - not the usual onions, peppers and maybe mushrooms, but spinach, asparagus, mushrooms, and artichoke hearts, with just a light sprinkle of cheese. Heaven.
It was fairly busy, but there was a table that was actually 3 2-tops pushed together. There was a couple seated at the inside of the long table. The hostess pulled the end table just slightly away from the other two and seated me there. As breakfast progressed, we all got to talking. Their names are Rachel (didn't check the spelling with her) and Ben. They are Indiana natives who have lived in Bozeman for 16 years. They started out to go to Seattle, but when they got to Bozeman they liked it so much that they decided to stay. Ben is a pilot. I didn't find out what Rachel does. They were on their way to Chico Hot Springs where they had been married. I didn't ask if it was an anniversary. They told me lots of great stuff about the area. They finished their meal first, and we said good-bye. A few minutes later, I asked my waitress whether I needed to pay up front or at the table, and she said that Rachel and Ben had paid my bill. THANKS, you two!
After breakfast, Remy and I hit the road for Yellowstone. After many Disney and National Geographic programs about Yellowstone and Old Faithful in childhood, and hearing the stories from friends who had visited, seeing Old Faithful has always been something I've wanted to do. The fact that the temperature was in the low forties and the sky was raining didn't matter to me. I had my biking rain gear in the back seat, so I was ready.
The drive to Yellowstone from Bozeman is stunning. We followed the Gallatin Highway, which parallels the Gallatin River most of the way. The river is high because of snow melt and today's precipitation, so it was running fast and a light, muddy tan color. Closer to the park, though, the Madison River appears, and while it may be fast underneath, it is placid and reflective of the sky, which varied widely through the day. We passed through heavy rain, mist, sleet, and light snow in the course of the trip down.
I congratulated myself on the purchase of a year-long National Park pass when I entered Yellowstone. I was also pleased that the temperature was low because I suspect it made it possible to see even more of the steam vents as we drove through the park. Just as we entered, I flipped on the radio and heard Scheherazade playing. I kept the station for 10-15 minutes before it turned to static. The music fit the passing scenery and my mood of romance with the whole experience.
Parking near the geyser was a bit of a challenge, but we finally found a spot and made our way to the spot where many stood waiting, most with iPhones cocked and ready. I had read that Old Faithful's timing changes, but it's never more than about 90 minutes. I judged by the number of people waiting that the crowd had been gathering for some time, so I didn't think we'd have to wait that long, but I was fully prepared to. A mere 10 minutes later, low level burbles of water started to come up and hisses of steam. And then she blew. It was beautiful and very moving. I cried. I know it's not necessary to figure out why, but I did think about it.
* It's a bucket list thing
* It's an amazing gift of nature
* Millions of people have shared this experience
* I finally got there
And then we turned around and drove out, enjoying the amazing landscape from the other direction. A herd of bison crossed our road, and I tried to get a shot, but if I posted it here you'd be saying, "What are those blurry black things in that field?" so I erased it from my phone.
All in all, the trip from Bozeman to Old Faithful and back took about 6 1/2 hours. By the time we got back to Bozeman, the sun had come out, and the temperatures had moderated some. I heard from Tayler midway through the afternoon. She had met up with yet another friend from Ludington -- can you believe it!? -- and that friend, or the group she was with, had invited her to supper. A later message invited me and Remy, as well.
I stopped at Barnes and Noble for the next two Harry Dresden books, and also picked up some mending materials at Joanne's, on the way back to the hotel. Remy and I sat for a few minutes and then went off the the cookout at Patty's house. I got introduced to everyone at least once, but I only remember a couple of names. Patty was our hostess, someone about my age. The rest were all young men and women in their 20s. The repast was brats, which I usually don't eat, but these were amazing and organic. I also had a couple of glasses of red wine, something I haven't done since Big Bob's a couple of weeks before departure.
So, here's the upshot of the last few days:
* When I'm alone I meet more people.
* I am happier when I have more freedom to stop and smell the roses, so to speak.
* There's no way that traveling with 2 adults and a nervous dog in the car for long distances will work.
* Something had to change.
Tonight, I purchased a ticket for Tayler to fly to Seattle on Monday. She'll stay tonight and tomorrow night with her friends, and someone will take her to the airport on Monday. I'll see her again tomorrow before I leave, and I'll drop off all her extra stuff to her in Seattle when I get there in a couple of weeks.
Tomorrow, Remy and I will go find some hot springs to sit in, hopefully in a fun little town where I can walk or bike around and talk to people. At some point, I would like to make it to Jackson Hole, Wyoming, because several people have recommended it, but since it's south of Yellowstone, and I already went that way today, it may happen on the way back from California. For now, it's National Parks in Montana, Idaho, Oregon and Washington, a definite stop in Missoula to visit the Adventure Cycling hub, and ... we'll see. There are many beautiful, paved biking trails inside some of these parks, and I hope to ride them, or at least parts of them. There is also a lot of biking in the Seattle area for me to partake in once I get there.
Someday, I would like to make a cross country trek of some kind; but I will do it with at least one other rider. I need the companionship of someone who speaks English. Having Remy along has been great in many ways, but it's not the same as being able to consult with someone else about the route or the hazards, or the interesting things to be seen along the way. I miss traveling with my girls, who notice the same strangely worded or misspelled signs that I do, and who enjoy listening to the same radio programs. I'm open to some other traveling orientation - a friend or partner who wants to do this, or getting a camper or small motor home and continuing my odyssey around the country, getting to know the country itself and its people. That is what I love.
I got a bit behind reading these, Margi, but you've been in my thoughts. This decision feels right to me, I hope it was!
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